If you want your sprinkler system in Colorado Springs to survive winter, you need to shut off the water, drain the lines, and blow them out with air before the first hard freeze. That is the core of Colorado Springs sprinkler winterization, and if you skip it, there is a good chance you will face cracked pipes, broken backflow parts, or dead zones in your lawn when spring comes back.
That is the short answer. Now, since you are here on a site for WBach listeners, I am going to take my time a bit. Think of this like a slow movement in a concerto. We will go step by step, not rushed, no hype, just clear steps you can actually follow.
Why winterization in Colorado Springs is not optional
Colorado Springs has odd weather. You know this already if you have tried to plan an outdoor concert or a simple walk with headphones on. Warm day, freezing night, dry air, and wind that feels stronger than it should.
Those freeze and thaw cycles are hard on sprinkler systems. Water that sits in the lines or in the backflow device can expand when it turns to ice. That expansion cracks plastic and weakens metal. Sometimes the damage does not show until spring. You turn on the system, hear a strange hiss, and see a small fountain in the yard where no fountain should be.
If water stays inside your sprinkler lines or backflow over winter, you are not just taking a risk, you are almost scheduling a repair for spring.
Some people hope that manual draining is enough. Sometimes it works. Then the first early freeze comes in October, and the lines that did not drain fully pay the price. In this climate, air blowout is the safer path. It is not perfect, but it is far better protection than just opening a couple of drain valves and crossing your fingers.
Basic stages of sprinkler winterization
You can think of the process in three main parts. This is not the only way to break it down, but it keeps things clear:
- Shut off and secure the water supply
- Prepare the system for blowout
- Blow out zones and shut everything down
I will walk through each of these. If you feel comfortable with tools and have access to an air compressor, you can do much of this yourself. If not, you can still follow along so that when a technician comes, you understand what they are actually doing. It is a bit like listening to WBach and learning just enough about strings and brass to hear what is going on.
Step 1: Find and shut off the sprinkler water supply
This can sound simple, but in some homes the shutoff valve hides in odd places. You need to find the main sprinkler shutoff, not the main house shutoff.
Common places to look
- In the basement near where the main water line enters the house
- In a utility room, near the water heater or furnace
- In a crawl space, near the front wall of the house
- In rare cases, outside in a valve box near the foundation
The sprinkler shutoff usually leads to a line that exits the wall and runs to the backflow device outside. The valve handle might be a round wheel or a straight lever.
Turn this valve to the off position. For a ball valve with a straight handle, the handle should be at a right angle to the pipe when it is off.
The indoor shutoff is your first defense. If that valve leaks or is left open, no amount of blowout will protect you from freeze damage on the indoor section of pipe.
Do you need to shut off the main house water too?
Usually, no. Your sprinkler system should have its own shutoff. You only turn off the whole house water for bigger jobs or if there is another problem. Some people turn off the whole house while they work because they feel safer that way. It is not required, but I understand the instinct.
Step 2: Switch off the controller and prepare the system
Once the water supply is off, you need to deal with the brain of the system and the outside hardware.
Set the sprinkler controller
Most controllers have one of these settings:
- “Off” or “System Off”
- “Rain” or “Rain Mode”
- “Standby”
Move the dial or push the button so the system does not try to run the zones over winter.
Later in the process, when you are blowing out the lines, you might use the manual zone start feature to move between zones. That depends on your controller and how you prefer to work. Some people use the controller. Others open zone valves by hand. I go back and forth, to be honest.
Check the backflow preventer
In Colorado Springs you are usually required to have a backflow preventer. It is that odd looking brass device outside, often near the side of the house, with handles and test ports. It stops sprinkler water from running back into the drinking water system.
If your backflow is above ground, it is very exposed to cold. That makes it one of the parts most likely to crack in winter if it has water inside.
Do this after you shut off the indoor valve:
- Locate the two test cocks on the backflow. They are small, slotted screws or little valves.
- Use a flat screwdriver to turn the test cocks 45 to 90 degrees so they are open.
- Water will drip or spray out a bit. That is normal.
- Turn the outside shutoff handles on the backflow to around a 45 degree angle, not fully open, not fully closed. This relieves pressure.
Backflow devices in Colorado Springs often fail from freezing at the very first cold snap, not from long winter cold. Getting that water out early saves a lot of money.
Step 3: Manual draining vs air blowout
At this point some people stop and think: maybe this is enough. Shut off the water, open a few valves, let gravity help. For some shallow, small systems, that might work during a mild winter. But we are not in a gentle coastal climate.
In this city, blowout with compressed air is far more reliable. Gravity draining rarely removes all water from low spots or long runs. You do not always see the damage until months later.
What you need for air blowout
You need three things that are not negotiable:
- An air compressor that can supply enough volume (CFM) at around 50 to 80 PSI
- A fitting or adapter to connect the compressor to your sprinkler system
- A pressure gauge or at least the built-in regulator on the compressor
A small pancake compressor for nail guns usually does not move enough air for a full residential system. It might work for very small zones, but it will take a long time and can overheat. Many people either rent a larger compressor or hire a service. You do not need a giant machine, but something in the 5 to 10 CFM range at 80 PSI is a more practical minimum for a typical yard.
Where to connect the air compressor
The connection point depends on how your system was built. This table gives a quick overview.
| Connection location | What it looks like | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blowout port near the backflow | Threaded cap or fitting on a short pipe next to the backflow | Easy to reach, designed for air connection | Not present on every system |
| Outdoor hose bib tied to sprinkler line | Regular garden spigot labeled for sprinklers | Lets you use common air-to-hose adapters | Risk of sending air back into house pipes if plumbed poorly |
| Indoor connection near shutoff | Threaded fitting on sprinkler branch inside | Protected from weather, controlled environment | Awkward access, more risk if you make a mistake indoors |
Use an adapter made for sprinkler blowout or for connecting air tools to hose threads. Tighten firmly, but not so hard that you damage the threads. If you are unsure which fitting is right, this is one of those points where calling a local pro is smarter than guessing. A cross-threaded fitting or a connection to the wrong line can cause real problems.
Safe air pressure for sprinkler blowout
Sprinkler components are not built for very high air pressure. Air is also more aggressive than water because it compresses and then releases force quickly. Using too much pressure can crack fittings or pop sprinkler heads.
Safe ranges are usually:
- 40 to 50 PSI for systems with plastic pipe (common in many yards)
- 50 to 80 PSI for systems with stronger components, if the manufacturer allows it
Unless you are reading a specific manual that tells you otherwise, I would stay under 70 PSI. Many people stay closer to 50 PSI and just give the zones more time. It can feel slow, but it is safer.
Blowing out the sprinkler zones
This is the step where it starts to feel a bit like conducting. You open one zone at a time, watch what happens, listen, and move on. It can take some patience.
Basic process for each zone
- Confirm that the water supply to the sprinkler system is off.
- Connect the air compressor to the blowout port and set the regulator to a safe PSI.
- Open the compressor output valve.
- Turn on the first zone using the controller or by opening the valve manually.
- Watch the sprinkler heads in that zone.
At first you will see water spraying strongly. Then the spray turns to a mix of water and mist. Then mostly air. Keep the air flowing for a bit after the water stops, but not endlessly. Maybe 1 or 2 minutes per zone after the water is mostly gone, depending on the size.
Then you:
- Turn that zone off.
- Move to the next zone and repeat.
Take breaks so you do not overheat the compressor. Some units overheat more easily than you expect. Let it cool if it sounds like it is struggling. There is no prize for finishing all zones in one long blast.
How to know when a zone is clear enough
This is one of those places with a bit of judgment. There is no exact second where you can say “done, zero water.” Sprinkler lines are not perfectly straight, and there can always be very small amounts left.
What you want is:
- No strong water flow from any heads
- Head risers that pop up and then drop back easily
Once you reach that point and keep air running for a short extra period, you gain most of the benefit you can reasonably get. Spending ten more minutes on the same zone does not guarantee perfect dryness, and can just stress components.
Special care for drip lines and low flow zones
Some yards in Colorado Springs use drip irrigation for trees, shrubs, or garden beds. These systems run at lower pressure and lower flow than regular lawn heads, and some of the tubing is thinner.
If your drip zones tie into the same manifold as your regular sprinkler zones, you still want to protect them, but not with high air pressure.
Choices here:
- Use much lower air pressure on drip-only zones, often 20 to 30 PSI
- Rely more on manual draining and gravity for drip lines that are above grade
- Install drain valves at low spots when you upgrade the system
I have seen people blow out drip zones at the same pressure as lawn zones and then wonder why fittings pop apart. The lower flow hardware does not enjoy high pressure air, at all.
What to do after blowout is complete
Once you finish blowing out every zone, you still need to clean things up and set the system to rest for the cold season.
Close and position valves correctly
Go back to the backflow device and valve boxes. Make sure:
- The test cocks are left partially open or at a 45 degree angle so trapped water has a path out
- The shutoff handles are not forcing pressure against closed ports
Different installers prefer slightly different positions. The idea is to avoid sealing water in tight spaces. Many people leave the handles at 45 degrees and the test ports cracked open.
Inside the house, confirm that the sprinkler shutoff valve is fully closed. Some people also crack open a small drain plug near that valve, if there is one, to empty any trapped water in the short indoor section of pipe.
Protect exposed parts from the cold
Backflow devices and exposed piping benefit from some insulation. This is not complex. You do not need a fancy solution.
- Use foam pipe insulation on exposed copper or PVC pipes
- Wrap the backflow device with an insulating cover or a combination of foam and a weather resistant cover
- Avoid plastic bags that trap moisture without insulating well
The goal here is to reduce sharp temperature swings. If a mild night is followed by a sudden hard freeze, a bit of insulation can slow the cold enough that any tiny remaining water has time to equalize without expanding too fast.
Common mistakes people in Colorado Springs make
I have talked with homeowners who tried to do this themselves and then called for help in spring. Patterns show up. Some are small oversights, others are bigger.
Relying on yard slope alone
Some people think that because their yard slopes, the water will just find its way out. Sprinkler lines often run across slopes, curve around trees, or dip slightly to go under walkways. Those dips form traps where water sits.
So even if your yard drains rainwater really well, the pipes under it may still hold pockets of water. Air blowout deals with those pockets in a way gravity alone does not.
Using too much air pressure
More pressure does not always mean better drying. It can mean faster damage. I have seen cracked fittings, broken solenoids, and sprinkler heads thrown out of the ground because someone wanted to “really clear the lines” and set the compressor to 100 PSI or more.
Moderate pressure, more patience. That combination works better.
Ignoring the indoor portion of the system
People sometimes focus on the lawn area and forget the short stretch of pipe between the indoor shutoff and the outside wall. That piece can freeze too. If it bursts, you may not see the damage until water runs inside the wall when you turn the system back on in spring.
Use the drain plug near the shutoff if there is one, or at least open the nearest fitting to empty that short section. Blowout helps, but that little segment sometimes needs special attention.
Timing your winterization: how early is early enough?
Colorado Springs does not really ask for your opinion on timing. Freezes come when they come. Some years, you can get away with running sprinklers into late October. Other years, you see ice on your windshield in late September.
A practical approach:
- Watch the forecast for overnight lows near or below 28°F
- Plan to winterize before a string of such nights, not after
- Mark a target window on your calendar, often late September to mid October
If you are a planner who schedules things around WBach programs, you might just pick a weekend when your favorite show plays and turn it into “winterizing day.” Have the music on inside, do your work outside, check back in between steps. It makes the chore feel less like a chore.
How often should you winterize and check your system?
Winterization is once per year, but that does not mean you only think about your sprinklers once. The rest of the year, a bit of light attention can catch small problems early.
Simple checks during watering season
- Watch for zones that take longer to build pressure
- Look for wet spots or muddy strips when the system is off
- Listen for hissing or chatter around the backflow or valve boxes
Those signs can point to leaks, partially stuck valves, or damaged heads. Fixing them before winter helps, because if a weak spot exists, cold weather will not make it stronger.
Connecting sprinkler care with your WBach habit
You might wonder why a radio listener would care this much about sprinkler winterization. But think about how you listen to music. You pay attention to timing, to small shifts in volume, to subtle mistakes that only a careful ear hears. Sprinkler care is not that different. Timing and detail matter.
Here are a few ways to turn winterization into something that fits into a day that already includes music:
- Use one symphony or playlist as your “work timer” for outdoor inspection
- During slower movements or breaks, write down which zones looked weak or uneven
- Keep a simple notebook by your stereo with notes about dates you winterized and any repairs done
That way, next year you are not trying to remember, “Did I blow out the lines before that cold snap, or after?” You will have the date. You might even remember what you were listening to.
When to do it yourself and when to hire someone
There is no one right answer here. Some homeowners enjoy doing everything themselves. Others would rather spend that time enjoying music, reading, or anything other than wrangling an air compressor outside in the wind.
Signs that you might be better off hiring a local service:
- You do not own a suitable compressor and do not want to rent one
- You are unsure where the blowout port or shutoffs are located
- Your system is large, complex, or has many drip and special zones
- You had a freeze-related failure in past years despite trying to handle it yourself
On the other hand, if you like practical projects, have the right tools, and enjoy learning systems step by step, winterization can be something you handle each year with growing confidence. Like learning a long piece of music, the first run feels confusing. The third or fourth time feels much more natural.
Small details that many guides skip
Most checklists cover the big steps. Shut off water, blow out lines, insulate. I want to mention a few small points that do not always get attention.
Tagging or labeling zones
While you are running each zone during blowout, this is a good time to write down which zone is which. On many controllers you see “Zone 1, Zone 2,” but you do not know which part of the yard that actually is without testing.
Create a simple legend:
- Zone 1: Front lawn right side
- Zone 2: Front lawn left side
- Zone 3: Back yard near patio
- Zone 4: Drip beds along fence
Tape that list inside the controller cover. Next year when a problem shows up in “Zone 3,” you know what that means without walking the whole yard again.
Watching for head alignment problems
During blowout, heads sometimes stick halfway up or stay crooked because air does not push them as evenly as water. If you notice heads that do not pop smoothly or do not sit level when they drop back down, mark them for adjustment in spring.
A crooked head may not seem like a big deal, but it can lead to dry patches on one side and soggy patches on the other. Small alignment fixes can make the whole system work better once you turn the water back on.
Sample yearly sprinkler care timeline for Colorado Springs
Here is a rough example of how someone who listens to WBach regularly might weave sprinkler care into the year. It is not strict, just a guide.
| Time of year | Typical sprinkler tasks |
|---|---|
| Late March to April | Turn system back on, inspect for leaks, fix any broken heads from winter |
| May to June | Adjust run times based on weather, check coverage patterns, tune spray arcs |
| July to August | Monitor for dry spots, clean clogged nozzles, watch for overwatering |
| September | Plan winterization date, inspect backflow and valves, gather tools |
| Late September to October | Perform winterization, blow out lines, insulate exposed parts |
| November | Do a quick check after the first few hard freezes for any obvious problems |
Wrapping it up with a few common questions
Q: If I miss one zone during blowout, is the whole system ruined?
A: Not automatically, but that one zone is at higher risk. If it has pipes in exposed or shallow spots, the chance of freezing damage is real. If you realize your mistake before deep winter, you can connect the compressor again and clear that zone. If you only notice in spring, watch that area carefully when you first run the system and be ready to shut it off fast if you see or hear a problem.
Q: Can I just leave the system on and run it occasionally in winter to keep it from freezing?
A: In Colorado Springs, that is a bad idea. Winter nights get cold enough that water inside the lines will freeze regardless of occasional use. Running the system during cold snaps can even make things worse, because water lingers in exposed heads and pipes. Winterization is much more reliable than trying to “keep it moving.”
Q: Is manual draining ever enough, or should everyone always use air blowout?
A: Manual draining alone might work in very mild climates or for tiny, shallow systems, but that does not describe Colorado Springs very well. For most WBach listeners who live here and have a normal residential sprinkler system, air blowout is the safer choice. If your installer built in special drain valves on every low spot and you know the layout perfectly, you might manage without air, but that is rare. For most people, a careful blowout each fall is simply the more practical way to protect the system for the long winter ahead.
